Pyongyang Yeonpyeong

A journalist’s unprecedented access to North Korea

Soldiers watch the military parade from the stands. {{name}}
Soldiers watch the military parade from the stands. {{name}}
01 January, 2011

We’re glad this article found its way to you. If you’re not a subscriber, we’d love for you to consider subscribing—your support helps make this journalism possible. Either way, we hope you enjoy the read. Click to subscribe: subscribing

{
  "type": "gallery",
  "attrs": {
    "title": null
  },
  "content": [
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12584",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/EpbU3oqufwknX4dkOyWDkKdZZGJVAcNjCX5fEBRtVGehRbyTlG_xh_CYf1DeLsQF_AOcW_JI0Ja2GwDlL9Sv4vueMg=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Soldiers watch the military parade from the stands.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12585",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/_3rpVARivfBrF0iTo34uf2HGZ4JJZKTq-uPHlSa9aHX64mnIGJvNeLXoUS9oEzQKKC-4xrY53GeSLYna2_-uAD6U8zE=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "People taking their seats in the stands of Kim II Sung square, moments before the start of the parade.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12586",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/x1osQfS7V3iw27PI4net6vBQeYwyhCgMYUSwfQveqsOzb56HPvXvqA2FghmQFH7ifsnkhD_x4SzHpwSMSglCBnRD7Q=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Female soldiers marching in Kim II Sung Square, also part of the anniversary celebrations.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12587",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/dQmCZuJi5VuMKeZ3v4N13h2V-WHyOEp3oHMkcRxDJw5jwrUJv5YWGa_VowT84tDKuodym6gtdGtKb5qcvzM1Nl2rIg=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Tanks in Kim II Sung square during the military parade to commemorate the 65th anniversary of the Workers’ Party of North Korea in Pyongyang on 10 October 2010.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12588",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/xF2iSems-kakAj9Zb6XiJlnl29BykcpIi8X_eka9PKQAt29QzfXBjDdZWklMi5M92dgmpw7AXculUll6pgNx2iaS=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "A foreigner aboard an Air Koryio flight reads an official North Korean newspaper with a young Kim Jong II in the front page.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12589",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/xSy8hdSp4MbU_ug7ptzlsV-LCg0HZMEAWtQdy3S6jfEG29wfVAV-h3m3geu_j-3bdP3RIfdpWSd4yJ-KOT6BjhVc3w=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Dancers perform during a gala show during the celebrations that would culminate in the first public appearance by Kim Jong Un.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12590",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/QO1qpyOExfQdcCVxtPX2LUvEmtuOmZZ44E0ZWTJj1Z-UKe460hburOWHSDV6HjuSM1a2ifcBOKwb1R5_uaYYyf4qJmI=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "A participant of the Worker’s Party parade stands happily after the march.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12591",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/dWjv049YBq1AZvsCQd2ZxWzIWYeybMC4sTvOwwi-DY2ZfiS9WljK6-eCzmmiq_ZKjdug0_-8ifsfwKgyqR-1kUN7Id4=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "People walking down the street in Pyongyang: a simple sight, yet one rarely photographed openly until the October ceremonies.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12592",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/3gogPbbaUIYvhdpOBXs6SVEV2FdUGTHUIZA3N1PYY8EVj9JAquF42_1hAVNJm8Vi9anruC7kmekkZRHHLeW031Ig=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "A propaganda poster is displayed on a street, in Pyongyang during the festivities.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12593",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/TMgU69aK73I1WDtosGY9eAje-AkDgfYE3XdNyFHMd-2sLa88qXMSPToBJL5BTESKXdo5oJy8HQpyWhxmB3_3hRk=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "A view of the Cholima statue, built to honor the heroism and invincible fighting spirit of the Korean people.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12594",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/85I9PTmgGO7lGQT1PFup-AkNI11Tmrg6Hy8SMghLskhgxFWZwuslmlAlq9D6kpl1WYbU_IZKppZlSgKXenIo7IG4TZ8=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Artillery fire from North Korea destroyed 20 houses and killed four civilians on the island of Yeonpyeong near the border between North and South Korea on 23 November.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12595",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/P_teBxDT07kJOd0fwl6IVQZ3OTcJkJM7uKrWS8RiMw9wE0Gh55RO83SyED6MO1EmS_UVktytUYStvTf_KUAXsimyWg=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "Marines from the Yeonpyeong military base guarding a checkpoint in the main road of the island.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    },
    {
      "type": "figure",
      "attrs": {
        "h": 1080,
        "w": 1080,
        "id": "12596",
        "src": "//lh3.googleusercontent.com/n_LzlfsxrpkhaaT10DKF-7x4iN1-oYBgtXHM_A2x49yWOeUWK4QY3GtEXwTdlzsH-ZkpAG51NAXG34FW8QhCtx0=s0"
      },
      "content": [
        {
          "type": "caption",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "A South Korean military helicopter flies over Yeonpyeong, days after the artillery attack from North Korea. The bombing was internationally condemned.",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        },
        {
          "type": "credit",
          "content": [
            {
              "text": "{{name}}",
              "type": "text"
            }
          ]
        }
      ]
    }
  ]
}

IN EARLY OCTOBER, the press corps in Beijing was shocked to discover that North Korea—the world’s most isolated state, which rarely permits entry to foreign journalists—had decided to allow dozens of reporters and photographers into Pyongyang to witness celebrations for the 65th anniversary of the ruling Worker’s Party.

The decision was equally surprising for the North Korean officials assigned to escort and monitor visitors to the hermit kingdom, who were quickly overwhelmed by the volume of curious visitors. Without enough minders to keep tabs on every journalist, writers and photographers seized on the rare opportunity to wander the streets of Pyongyang —to speak to ordinary North Koreans, to enter shops and markets, to take the subway.

This unprecedented opening was no accident: the anniversary celebration coincided with the first-ever public appearance of Kim Jong Un, the youngest son and designated successor of Kim Jong Il, whose debut came amid a carefully choreographed ceremony of parades and pageantry, all of it intended to depict the young Kim as the worthy heir of his father and grandfather, who have ruled this enfeebled state without challenge for six decades.

Thanks for reading till the end. If you valued this piece, and you're already a subscriber, consider contributing to keep us afloat—so more readers can access work like this. Click to make a contribution: Contribute