On 14 April, after spending three years underground, Bimal Gurung addressed a mammoth gathering in Darjeeling. Gurung is one of the most recognisable faces of the Gorkhaland movement, which has long agitated for a separate state to represent the Nepali-speaking community along the northernmost reaches of West Bengal. He is the founder of the Gorkha Janmukti Morcha, the primary political vehicle of the Gorkhaland movement, and was previously the chairperson of the Gorkhaland Territorial Administration, an autonomous administration representing Gorkha majority regions. In the recent West Bengal assembly elections—the fifth phase, which included all regions of the GTA, was held on 17 April—Gurung’s GJM suffered a serious loss, losing all three hill seats in the Gorkha majority region to a resurgent Bharatiya Janata Party and a breakaway faction of his own party. In the two seats the BJP won, the two factions of the GJM polled higher if their votes were added, indicating that the election was more a loss for Gurung himself rather than the Gorkhaland movement.
In 2017, Gurung led a 104-day bandh calling for the territories of the GTA to be made into a full state. The protest started following the West Bengal government’s decision to make Bengali mandatory in schools across the state. Gurung’s face was omnipresent, urging the protest on through videos on WhatsApp and Facebook that every youth seemed to be watching on their phones. In comparison, his speech on 14 April was a far more toned-down affair. Instead of emotive calls for the creation of state of Gorkhaland, Gurung instead asked for the extension of the GTA to the lowland Terai and Dooars areas, and for the inclusion of 11 tribes under the Scheduled Tribes category.
The agitation in 2017 marked the height of Gurung’s popularity in the region. Despite it being the zenith of a nearly-century-old struggle for statehood, even senior members of the GJM told me they were surprised by the crowds of passionate youth that thronged to join the strikes and protests. Acts of wanton violence by the West Bengal police and paramilitaries against protestors, which left 11 Gorkha youth dead, also added to public anger and support for the GJM in the hills.
In June 2017, I was in Bengaluru, and news began trickling in about police excesses from my home town, Siliguri. Several friends would call me each day and tell me about their shops being bound shut and long convoys of police and paramilitary vans heading deeper into the hills. Despite this, mainstream media barely covered either the protests or the state violence. Instead, TV screens spoke only of arson and extremist violence. The reports only spoke of vehicles set on fire, flames spreading to police posts and damages to a heritage railway station near Kurseong. Thousands started to hit the streets and yet their hopes, views and anger were barely explained. There also seemed to be radio silence in the national press about how locals were dealing with the lengthening lockdown and spiraling violence. It was to fill this lacuna in the Indian public’s understanding of the aspirations of everyday Gorkhas that I travelled to Darjeeling and Kalimpong.
In Darjeeling town, the schools were closed, the internet shut. ATMs had run out of money, food supplies were dwindling, and there was still no clarity on when life in the hills would reach some semblance of normalcy. Come rain or sunshine, thousands thronged the streets in different parts of the Darjeeling hills. Common people from far-flung areas were spending their hard-earned wages to join these rallies. The chants for Gorkhaland seemed to be coming from every street. I spent close to a month in the hills documenting the movement and how it was affecting the lives of people. With no transport, local NGOs helped me in commuting to far flung villages whose livelihoods had come to a standstill. And yet, the GJM and their agitation seemed to enjoy widespread support.
At the same time, no leader of the GJM I spoke to seemed to have any concrete plan on how to resolve the crisis. A 31-year-old GJM member I spoke to later told me, “It really surprised many of us to see that the demands our leaders were making were quite vague on the inside.” He continued, “Without any proper plan in place the movement would eventually fade away. That’s exactly what happened.” I wondered where the movement was heading and how long the everyday economy of farmers, porters, shopkeepers and the tea garden workers could bear the violence. “The shut-down didn’t affect rich families,” the 31-year-old said. “It was the poor people who were without jobs or money.”
After 104 days of lockdown, Gurung was charged under the Unlawful Activities (Prevention) Act in connection with a grenade attack at Kalimpong Police Station and an explosion in Darjeeling’s Chowk Bazaar, and went underground. Buoyed by its popularity, though, the GJM has thrice supported the BJP in sending representatives to parliament from Darjeeling. But the parachute journalism ended with the crisis. The news faded as the politicians did. Neither the press or leaders of the GJM seemed concerned that the lives of people in Darjeeling were irreparably changed. Over the past four years, I have attempted to document Darjeeling’s daily struggles and aspirations, so animated in 2017, which have now returned to quotidian labour and the economic reality of poverty and underdevelopment. These changes also parallel the dynamic political rise and the decline of Bimal Gurung.
Gurung’s toned-down rhetoric this year runs parallel to his weakening grip over the Gorkha public, following his three-year exile and a shuffling of political alliances in the region. Making his first appearance in October last year, Gurung broke all ties with National Democratic Alliance, saying that BJP-led central government had done little to address their issue and their promises had not been fulfilled. He extended his party’s support to the Trinamool Congress for this year’s assembly elections. While some voters I spoke to welcomed this decision, many felt betrayed, especially after all the human-rights violations that happened in the hills over the past decade, under TMC rule.
The GJM has also been riddled with splits and factionalism that seriously affected its electoral performance. In September 2017, Binay Tamang, then the assistant general secretary of GJM, broke away to create his own party. To complicate things, the Tamang faction chose to fight the assembly elections separately, winning the Kalimpong seat, but splitting votes in both Darjeeling and Kurseong, which led to BJP victories.
The frustration that led to the GJM’s factionalism was something that had pervaded even the most dedicated activists I had met in 2017. The 31-year-old activist told me he had been working with the GJM since his college days. He told me, “For me and most people my age, we always wanted a state to call our own.” He continued, “It had always meant a lot more than a mere administrative change. Gorkhaland meant better jobs, good infrastructure in my village. That is why it mattered to us so deeply.” His opinion of Gurung has since soured. “We were with him,” he said. “Instead, he chose to run away and hide for three years.” Sanjiv Lama, who had been with the GJM since its inception, told me he too was disappointed. “Many of the families of the party members have had harrowing experience because of this. We were on the run for many years after the 2017 movement, leaving our families behind,” Lama said. “There are still party members who are falsely chargesheeted by the police and nobody has come to save them.” He said he still hoped for full statehood, but had lost trust in the GJM. “I withdrew my support from the party last year and now support an independent candidate,” he told me. “The movement is for a bigger cause and one’s self-centric attitude can be very dangerous.”
During my reporting from Darjeeling this year, it was clear that the BJP had left no stone unturned in gaining ground. With major rallies in Kurseong, Kalimpong and Siliguri, and heavyweights like the home minister Amit Shah, Uttar Pradesh’s chief minister Yogi Adityanath, and Prime Minister Narendra Modi addressing the voters, a political shift seemed imminent. However, even the senior leaders of the GJM that I spoke to were shocked at how poor their performance was, with the Bimal faction getting less than 25 percent of the vote-share in all three seats. The BJP’s campaign also squarely ignored any discussion of the demand for statehood for Gorkhaland, which could evidence a fundamental shift in the political aspirations of the people of the region.
Amidst the campaigning was the story of thousands who had lost jobs or saw their profits shrink. Of more than 87 tea gardens in Darjeeling ten years ago, only 80 are operational now. Tea-garden workers, among the poorest in the region, have had their lives torn apart. Older workers shifted to work as daily-wage labourers in stone quarries, while much of the younger generation have migrated to work in cities across the country. Despite the tea gardens growing defunct, many still have standing tea plants, which in the right season are plucked by those who lost their jobs, and sold to other companies. Many told me they still yearned for Gorkhaland to get statehood, but had to feed their own families first. The bread winners of at least seven families are still in jail, in connection with cases that followed the 2017 agitation. They now live meal-to-meal, under the burden of a slowing economy and mounting legal fees. Most villages still lack running water, a daily reality that several people told me the BJP or the GJM barely bothered to address in their campaigns. In the past four years, I saw the same families grow sullen—their questions unaddressed, their political dreams overshadowed by economic strife. The hard work of rebuilding villages and feeding communities seemed to have replaced the anger and passion that lit faces in 2017.
“I still support the cause because I believe in it but I am not with any political party anymore,” the 31-year-old told me. “I am trying to spend most of my time with my family and doing working to fix problems in my village.”