Betting the Farm

The exotic vegetables of Bodh Gaya

31 October 2022
ILLUSTRATION BY SHAGNIK CHAKRABORTY
ILLUSTRATION BY SHAGNIK CHAKRABORTY

On a chilly morning in December 2019, Suryakant Narayan, a farmer in Bodh Gaya, woke up at 5 am and went to his field to harvest some exotic crops: bok choy, ruby ball and napa cabbage, lemon grass, celery, strawberry, lettuce, bell peppers, baby corn, water spinach, thyme and basil. He would deliver part of his produce at the local mandi, where retailers and purchase managers of nearby hotels come to procure fresh vegetables. Due to an abundance of supply, however, he did not get the desired price for his crops.

The farmers of Bodh Gaya take huge risks in planting nontraditional crops in the winter months, instead of wheat, with the hope of high demand from East Asian pilgrims. They often deliver the produce to restaurants in the area, many of which are owned or operated by foreign nationals. Some foreign pilgrims and tourists stay longer, rent a place, and cook for themselves—buying these exotic vegetables at mandis. Sometimes, they procure them directly from the farmers’ fields, bargaining in their broken Hindi, acquired over their long seasonal stays.

Seeds of these vegetables were first introduced and distributed to the local farmers by monks from nearby monasteries. Narayan began farming them some fifteen years back, when they were relatively still quite alien. He told me that, in the early days, a friend once took some broccoli from him and asked his grandmother to prepare it for lunch. As she was chopping it, some neighbours dropped in. They told her it was rotten cauliflower, green because it had caught fungus. She fed the broccoli to her cow.

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    Siddharth Kumar is an independent researcher focussing on labour, gender and community development.

    Keywords: agriculture Buddhism tourism pilgrimage
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